A cycling guide to possibly the greatest ride in the UK. With 500m of coastal roads looping around the North of Scotland the NC500 is legendary amongst motorists & cyclist alike.
The North Coast 500 is primarily a driving route - but there's no shortage of ambitious cyclists who take it on the hard way... On 2 wheels with a bike-pack, a rain jacket and a bunch of Restrap bags full of bananas! It's an 816km / 500m route around the unique coastal roads of the North Highlands, with plenty of steep climbs, winding descents and dramatic mountain landscapes, beaches & castles. We'll struggle to get the sheer epic-ness across in the article, but rest assured the scenery and the adventure will stay with you forever.
I was by no means an expert, or even a moderately hardened bike-packer when I set off to ride around the highlands. My partner in crime sent me a message along the lines of 'Are you busy, do you fancy an adventure?' and 2 weeks later we were scrambling onto a cargo carriage at Euston station. With 2 hours sleep and a bike that I had only just (90%) completed building the night before - it's fair to say we had more enthusiasm than experience! But nonetheless we were off, and with a equally confident friend-of-a-friend meeting us en route, we had what would turn into a solid team. Several years later I am glad to report that Barry, Simon and I maintain the greatest of friendships.
And so we come to this article. You'll get an honest story, some top advice, lessons we learnt on the road and some solid encouragement to get involved yourself. So remember #OutsideIsFree and as always, #RideWithMates.
What you need to know
The North Coast 500 starts and finishing at Inverness, usually in a clockwise direction cutting across the mainland to Applecross before working up the West coast to John O'Groats, and back down the East coast... But there is no reason why you couldn't do it the other way around too. The weather is tough, the climbs are brutal (expect 17% at least three times every day) and the scenery is as biblical as it is beautiful.
NEED TO KNOW
The Climbs
Too many to list, but most of the coast is a long (long) line of 5/10 minute climbs around 15%. So you'll be very glad when you do finally cut inland and find some beautiful rolling flats. Just be prepared to travel slow, and feel the burn.
The Best bits
Bealach na Ba
is the climb to savour, on the way into Applecross at the end of the first day. It's Scotland’s third highest pass, but because it runs from sea level to '2,053ft (626m) it can boast the greatest ascent of any road in the UK. It's even in the Guinness Book of Records. We were lucky enough to reach the peak just as the sun set, and had a wee dram of Lagavulin whisky on hand to celebrate.
The Best & Worst bits
Dealing with punctures
... on top of a mountain, when you've bonked and given up on life. Relentless gale force winds, soggy toes and distinct lack of sunlight, civilisation and supplies doesn't help. But Barry dancing whilst fixing puncture number 7 was absolutely worth it!
The worst bits
Putting up tents in the dark
... and the rain in 2' centigrade. Although finding out that the '2 man tent' was actually just 6" by 3" - did makes for a hilarious night of snuggling with Barry.
The worst bits
Mega fatigue
Yup Simon literally stopped mid flow and fell asleep where he sat... So naturally we ate his cake. Lucky for us they know how to do good cake in Scotland.
Advice
Book your train at least 2 months in advance
... and be sure to call the operator to reserve a spot for your bike. We found several people getting turned away (including one person who had actually booked, but a non-booker had already whipped the spot and disappeared to their seat) so have your confirmation ready and load your bike as soon as the train arrives.
Get a decent GPS Unit
I used (and highly rate) the old Garmin 820, but have since upgraded to the more recent Garmin 550. Its very easy to get lost in the highlands, so download a GPS guide (great example here).
Invest in quality rechargeable lights
... because it gets really really dark in the sticks. You need at least 800 lumen, and having dynamo hub will remove a lot of charging stress.
Join the NC500 Facebook Group
Right about here.
Pack light water proof shoe covers
I lucked out when by trying the Velotoze on this trip, and I was the envy of both the guys. Light, small, easy to put on and completely water tight. They are really just condoms for your feet, but they do the job incredibly well. If you're going for more than 5 days I would take a second pair, and they can tear relatively easily on boa latches etc.
Get the Cicerone Guide
Everything you could ever wish to know about the NC500 Cycle Route in one small book that will fit in your back pocket. It is just brilliant, check out their site here.
Travel light
We thought we had until day two when the hills hit hard, and we started shedding unnecessary weight like it was going out of fashion. One spare pair of bibs, a few pairs of socks, technical t-shirts that dry quick, a packable waterproof jacket (I used the Berghaus Paclight 2.0 which was perfect) and some warmer layering options.
Don't camp!
It's just not worth the weight or the weather, so choose your daily distance and book accommodation in advance. Trust me... A hot bath and a bed will be a god-send after 9 hours on the bike every day.
Eat a lot
Really. When you're doing 120km with 2,000m of climbing in gale force winds and rain - it's incredible how many calories you burn, how tired, and how de-motivated you can can feel. There are some 70km sections where you won't see a shop, garage, car or even a cow - so eat regularly and always carry extra food and water,
Share the Adventure
We all know our favourite #RideWithMates and #ExploreMore tags, but this adventure really does embody them both. Trip of a life time? Yup! Absolutely unforgettable, beautiful, inspiring landscapes? Cor blimey yes! Something we still talk about years later?... 100%. But these really would not be the case if the 3 of us didn't share it together. If Barry didn't call me (just a week in advance) with a cool idea & a train ticket... If Simon didn't reply to a social post saying 'Hey guys I'm Simon & I'm in!' then it just would not have happened. Eating pies on highland lakes, sheltering from the wind behind a post box, knocking on doors for shelter for the night and riding into the sunset... These moments we all about us being together, and we'll never forget them.
Ready to go?
Then what are you waiting for - message your friends right now & start looking at train tickets! If you want more hands on advice then join the Club and jump in the Whatsapp group - we're all in there, and we're ready to help.
Get the Cicerone Guide Book
Our trusted guide to the NC500
We didn't find this until after our trip, but we're planning to go back again and THIS guide is absolute gold. GPX files, maps, locations, everything you need to have an epic adventure.
We've used the Cicerone guides for a few trips now, and really cannot recommend them enough.
(Join the Club for a cheeky 20% off!)
Pack with Restrap
Another sure fire endorsement from an adventure in the Scottish Highlands - these Restrap bags really are amazing. Strong, easy to use, with big straps (that hold steady and don't damage your frame) and magentic clips that magically close themselves. Trust us when we say that having bags that 'just-work', keep your kit dry & enable you stay super organised... Is worth it's weight in gold.
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The North Coast 500 #NC500
Quite possibly the greatest ride in the UK. 500m of coastal roads in a loop around the North of Scotland.
The North Coast 500 #NC500
Quite possibly the greatest ride in the UK. 500m of coastal roads in a loop around the North of Scotland.
